I Weep In Paris

Thursday, April 13, 2006

Up at 6am. Wow, did I feel knocked out. But am ready for the day. After updating the last several days of my journal I headed downstairs for complimentary breakfast which is croissants (I had the plain, chocolate, and apple) and coffee. In those learn french conversation books they teach you how to say things in French, but they don't tell you how to respond to questions. The lady in the breakfast room asked me something about café or tea (which I answered cafe), but then asked something else. I just looked dumb. I said oui, and realized I needed to give her a choice. Later I figured out that she was asking "moins ou lait" (with out or with milk). I selected moins. Every 15 minutes you could hear the rumbling of the subway underneath the hotel, but it wasn't that disturbing.

Well, next it was off to the Eiffel Tower. I wanted to get there before the crowds accumulated. My first experience on the Paris subway (RER and Metro) did not go quite so well. First, I went up to the ticket counter and ordered a "carnet de dix billets" which is a bulk of 10 tickets. Then I tried to use one to go through the gate. Beep beep. It wouldn't let me through. Ok, turn the ticket around and try again. Beep beep. Turn the ticket upside down. Beep beep. Go back over to the ticket counter. "excusez-moi, monsieur, parlez-vous anglais? I can't use this ticket to get through!" So I went through a special gate and I had no problems with any of my other tickets after that.

Ooh, la la!

My first view of the Eiffel Tower, after coming out of the subway, was spectacular. Here it was, in all its glory. I stood in line for 30-40 minutes before going through. I could go to the first "etage" (floor), the second, or to the very top. I have a fear of heights so I chose just the second. I didn't even look out the window as we were going up. It makes me nauseaus. I took some pictures from that height, bought some souvenirs at the gift shop and came down. I had some people take some pictures of me with the tower in the background. They were happy to oblige.

Next, I "wandered down" (listen to Joni Mitchell) the Champs Elysees. My good friends, Joe and Jean had given me $10 to have a café au lait and croissant on this popular boulevard, so I found a café and ordered away. It came to 10 euros which is about $12.83.

I'm in the middle of traffic hoping I don't get hit!

The cafe

The meal!

I also visted Notre Dame Cathedral, the place where the Bastille prison stood, and visited the Biblioteque de Polonaise which housed some Chopin memorabilia, most notably a chair that was in his last apartment. Also, the plaster caste of his delicate hand and his face after his death showed him to be a remarkably slight man. I was very disappointed to learn that in just two weeks, the museum would be receiving a piano that Chopin played. Oh, I'll have to come back!

Earlier in my life, I was fascinated by the Polish pianist/composer Frederic Chopin. I read all his biographies and recorded all his music on a reel-to-reel tape recorder. At one time, I even noted over 40 factual errors in the 1945 movie about Chopin called "A Song To Remember" starring Paul Muni, Merle Oberon, and Cornel Wilde. His was a brilliantly creative but troubled life. His long-time illness, pulmonary tuberculosis, got the better of him at the age of 39.

Later that evening, I visited 12 Place Vendome, the place where Chopin died. It was so disappointing to see that it was turned into a store. I went through the back door and up some stairs of the building. But, I really couldn't get a sense of what it would

12 Place Vendome on the right, now a Chaumet Boutique.

have been like in 1849. I walked away in tears, weeping, because of the lack of respect for the history of the place and for the tragic end of this great composer. Interestingly, several years ago I awoke from a dream where I found myself in Paris, weeping. I examine his astrological chart here.

Back to the hotel. Called home. It was noon in Boulder and I struck gold! All my family were home because Jessie and Melanie both were home sick, so I got to speak to them and Laurinda. I miss them and love them so much.

Typical meal in Paris. No fancy fare for me here.

Well, I've caught up with my journal and it's almost 9pm. Time to get some sleep and travel to Versaille tomorrow. Bon nuit.

Next: The Home of Kings and Queens